Next month we will be installing one on this unit and will let you know how well it works but it does make sense! You can find more information on their website here: /collections/all Lower Your Initial Amp Draw And Use Two Roof AC Units To help even further, RV Airflow Systems has developed an aftermarket kit that can be installed to take away the whirlwind effect and increase airflow by 40%.
I would even suggest getting the insulated foam tape and covering all exposed metal as this will also create condensation if left exposed. All these gaps and connecting points can be covered with duct sealing tape that you can get at any home improvement store. Also, when the air comes off the fan it goes straight down and hits the shroud or plastic cover it creates a whirlwind effect and again, limits the airflow. Also, notice all the gaps above and on the side of the diverter! This allows air to blow back into the air return rather than going to the ductwork. Notice the back of the unit, behind the diverter, has a side duct going back to the vents. Here is the diverter on a 2015 Thor Challenger we worked on recently. This is what diverts or directs the air coming from the fan to the ductwork rather than vents on the bottom of the unit. For ducted models, the unit is shipped with a generic baffle or thin piece of material, typically foam that the manufacturer needs to cut to length and insert into the opening. However, if you have vents in the ceiling and air is distributed from the unit through ductwork there are some modifications you can perform.īoth ducted and non-ducted roof airs are basically the same unit with a few additional components. If you have a direct flow unit in which the air comes directly out of vents on the unit, there is not much you can do to improve the airflow as it is basically dumped out like a residential window air conditioner. Use your roof vents, windows, and fans to move air around and pull as much warm moist air out as possible if your rig is sweltering. And since hot air rises, the temperature at the inside ceiling of your rig could be 120 degrees! That means your roof air conditioner will pull it in and blowback 104 degrees into your rig. As your unit sits in the sweltering sun, inside temperatures can get 20-30 degrees hotter than the outside temperature and sometimes even more. The roof air conditioner of your RV can only cool or “condition” air down 16 degrees from what it is pulling in. Some manufacturers are putting them at an angle or in a circle with a covered vent. It’s not uncommon to see flattened fins from hail or tree branches especially the older units with flat open backs. Make sure the condenser fins are not blocking airflow and are straight. Even with 110-degree outside heat, the air drawn in is much less than the high temperatures the coolant can reach. Next, the coolant flows back to the condenser coil where outside air is drawn into it down so it can go through the cycle again. If you get water or moisture spraying out when the air conditioner is blowing, it could be the drain holes are plugged and moisture is trapped in the drip pan. If you use a garden hose, cover the return air vent or you will get water inside the rig.
#Rv airflow system portable
You can use a small portable vacuum to clean the coils however if they are really dirty, you will need to go up on the roof, take off the shroud, and then take off the evaporator housing and clean it.
This is what a good evaporator coil should look like.
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